Author Archives: Kevin Hannula

Dead Battery Cause?

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Hello Kevin

I spoke with y’all several times last spring and bought a bunch of stuff from your partners at EzAcDc for my 28′ double decker party barge restoration project.

I got their boat wiring harness, marine electrical switch panel, battery cables, and smart battery switch system. I installed all new LED navigation lighting on the boat with new wiring for everything, and I have a 4-speaker stereo system.28 Double Decker

The only thing that really draws any power is the stereo….well, that and the tiny water pump that we turn on for a few minutes every now and then to pump water up to the swimming pool slide. The pump uses 7.5 amps at startup and 5 amps continuously, but like I said, we don’t use it but a few minutes at a time. I installed all of this and put in two brand new “dual purpose” batteries that I purchased at Academy Sports. My thought was that the dual purpose batteries would give me more power for running accessories and still be more than enough to start the 1996 120hp Johnson 2-stroke outboard.

However, things didn’t work out quite like I expected. Before the summer was over, I was already having trouble keeping the batteries charged. I guess the Johnson motor’s alternator isn’t strong enough, or the motor being slow to crank and warm up takes too much out of the batteries. Anyway, I’ve gotten myself stranded with a dead battery twice already.

Question #1:

Given this setup, do you think that I would have better luck using two “starting” batteries rather than the “dual purpose” batteries?

Question #2:

Is it a bad idea to have different types of batteries running together on that smart switch system, i.e. one starting battery and one dual-purpose or deep cycle?

Thanks for your help. I’m sending a picture of the boat so you’ll know better what we’re talking about.

Paul

Hi Paul,

If everything is working correctly, the water pump, stereo, and DC accessories should not be able to draw your engine battery down below 12.7 volts and cause you to not start.

A have a few questions:

  • When you run your boat, what position do you put the battery switch in? It should be in the ON. If you run in the COMBINE position, your house systems will be able to draw down you engine battery.
  • Are any components connected to the engine battery? Either on the battery itself or on the back of the battery switch?

If you run the switch in the ON position and no components are connected to the engine battery besides your engine, it is possible that even though the engine is charging while running, it may be discharging when the engine is turned off and causing your engine battery to become flat.

The one battery should have plenty of reserve capacity to start your engine. To a certain extent, the engine alternator doesn’t really care what type of battery (starting / deep cycle) it is connected to. Problems arise when you mix and match battery types like AGM and lead acid. They both have unique charging characteristics are really don’t like to be forced to charge together.

Kevin

AFD Ignore?

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Kevin,

I am adding a battery selector switch to my pontoon boat wiring and need your advice.

I have a battery switch with connecting points for “AFD”. I have directions and drawings and I still don t know what connects to these f1 and f2 connecting points. The drawing that I have says the requlator?

If you could please explain that so even a knuckle head will understand, I might get it :}

Thanks,Guest battery switch

Ron

Hi Ron,

The AFD connection points are for an alternator with an external regulator. My guess is that your alternator was built during last few decades, it is internally regulated, and the afd connection points are not required.

Happy boat wiring,

Kevin

Battery Switch Basics

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Hi Kevin,

I am redoing the wiring on my pontoon boat and am hoping that you give me a bit of help here!

Could you please tell me what the contact points are for a Guest Battery Switch 2111? I know the following:

  • Battery 1 is Contact 1 and Off
  • Battery 2 is Contact 2 and Off

    • Guest Battery Switch

  • Off is open both batteries Preventing the batteries to make contact with any circuit.

Now here is the part that I don’t know. When the switch is in the Both Position, is the conatct made between the Battery 1 and Battery 2 and off or is it just Battery1 and Battery 2?

I have a continuity tester and can check it, when I finally receive the switch for my boat wiring project, but I don’t have it as of yet.

Thank you for your help.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Your boat systems/engine are connected to the COM post. Battery 1 is connected to the BAT 1 post and Battery 2 is connected to the BAT 2 post.

  • When the switch is in the BAT 1 position, the COM post is internally connected to the BAT 1 post. The boat will run off of battery 1.
  • When the switch is in the BAT 2 position, the COM post is internally connected to the BAT 2 post. The boat will run off of battery 2.
  • When the switch is in the BOTH position, the COM post is internally connected to both the BAT 1 post and the BAT 2 post. Your boat will be running off of both batteries.

Hope this clears it up,

Kevin

One switch to light them all

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Hi KevinAttwood is the marine industry's top manufacturer of navigation lights

I am redoing my pontoon boat wiring and would like to have one toggle switch turn on only the bow lights or turn on the bow and all-round bimini lights.

How do I wire this? I’ve seen it done on other boat, but am not sure how.

Thanks.

Mel

Hi Mel,

This is fairly simple to connect. It all depends on what type of toggle switch you have.

Check out these instructions for the panel rewire kit offered by our partners at EzAcDc. The section on Navigation/Anchor light switch wiring on the second page will explain it all.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Charge!

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Hi Kevin

I have a 2009 15 HP Mercury Outboard motor and I would like to charge a battery in the boat.Mercury 15 HP Outboard

Does this motor have some sort of 12 volt output, or can I get something to fit to this motor?

Thanks

Con

Hi Con,

Most small outboards do not have a 12 volt output unless they are electric start. Even with electric start, their alternators are so small that they usually don’t produce enough of a charge current to replenish a dead battery unless you run the engine for a long time.

You are actually better off spending your money on a small, water-proof charger that can be left on the boat and plugged in when necessary.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

VSR OK?

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Kevin,

I once had a relay similiar to a VSR, but it didn’t work for my situation.

The problem was that the house battery bank was larger and when it connected both together it would drop the house bank after a few seconds if the house bank was low.

Are there settings on modern VSRs to prevent this?

Brian

HI Brian,

You may want to consider the BEP VSR. It has a 5 second delay built into it to help prevent nuisance opening and closing. If you have a large house battery bank that is low and a smaller engine alternator, then you will have the same problem.

A newer option would be the line of remote operated battery switches from BEP. This is a VSR combined with a remote battery switch that is operated by a push button on your dash. The switch has a 10 minute timer that will keep the switch engaged to allow your engine alternator to recharge your house battery bank. It also gives you a method for emergency starting without manually rotating a battery switch.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Boat Wiring Resources

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Hello,

I have a 1987 Sanpan and am refurbishing it this winter.

I want to replace the gauges on the dash. However when I looked at the panel from behind I saw a nightmare of boat wiring dynamically connected all over the place and could make no sense of it at all. Godfrey Sanpan

Now I’m thinking that it may be easier to start from scratch, rather than try to get on the same page as the original designer, however, I’d need a solid understanding of DC circuitry with respect to gauges, as well as their attachment points on the engine.

Is there a resource for novices on this subject?

Thanks for any help you could provide.

Yours truly,

Neil

Hi Neil,

Several great boat wiring books have been written by Don Casey, Ed Sherman, and John Payne on the subject.

Some of these are even available for download on your Kindle.

Good luck,

Kevin

Switch Should Help

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Kevin,

I have pontoon boat wiring that runs the battery down when the boat isn’t running.

I put an amp probe on it and it is drawing 1 amp, but I am not sure what to do next.A simple on/off switch can disconnect the battery when not in use.

Frank

Hi Frank,

With you amp probe installed, remove fuses or disconnect circuit breakers one at a time to determine which circuit is creating the draw. I would put my money on your stereo being the problem.

A simple solution to your issue would be to add a classic ON/OFF battery switch. You could use it to completely disconnect the battery from the rest of the boat wiring when you aren’t using it.

Happy boat wiring,

Kevin

Pontoon Boat Wiring Questions

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Hi Kevin,

I am interested in rewiring my 21′ pontoon boat with the pontoon boat wiring harness, OEM original panel rewire kit, and switch covers from EzAcDc.Manitou Pontoon Boats

I understand that you helped in the design of the EzAcDc system and am hoping that you can answer some questions for me.

I will need circuits for:

  • Two navigation lights mounted on front of boat, 15 feet from helm, switched from top rocker in panel, left position.
  • Anchor Light (one pole), mounted on rear of boat, switched from top
  • Four interior courtesy lights, each light within 15 feet of helm, switched from second on-off rocker.
  • One live well pump located in motor well, rear of boat, 20′ feet
  • Pontoon Boat Horn, enclosed unit, located in helm
  • Two docking lights, mounted on front of boat, 20 feet from helm, operated by push/pull switch.
  • Trip set buttons, (2) mounted next in ignition plate, to set trip
  • In-dash radio with three speakers each located within 15 feet of helm.  Switch below Radio (see picture) on/off rocker for radio.  Why not
    turn radio on/off via radio switch and use this position for wench referred below?
  • Anchor winch to be added.  I assume separate circuit to run from helm to front of boat about 20′.  Could be switched from radio switch
    mentioned above or switch located elsewhere, possibly in ignition plate. Switch should be left depress to lower, right depress to lift.
  • Locate convenience receptacle (location suggestion would be appreciated) to operate vacuum cleaner, etc.  I assume power from second
    battery.
  • Wire for simple fish finder.  Removable unit, located on or close to helm.
  • Also are there any other suggestions that you have for this boat wiring project?

Thanks,

Jay

In general, you should be fine with the pontoon harness and the rewire kit from our partners at EzAcDc. More specifically:

Navigation Lights

The Ez Pontoon Boat harness has wires for both bow lights – and it plugs directly into your new rewire kit. The rewire kit has fuse and wires to wire new nav/anc switch. A nav/anc switch and labeled switch cap is included in the switch kit.

All Round Light

The Pontoon Boat harness has a wires for your stern light which plug directly into rewire kit. The rewire kit has fuse and wires to wire new nav/anc switch – per the USCG, the stern light needs to be on centerline of your boat. Most people put them on their bimini top.

Interior Lights

The harness provides two 12′ courtesy light breakouts. From the helm panel, these wires are closer to 16′ long. Additional length can be added along with additional courtesy lights spliced in. The rewire kit has a fuse position for courtesy lights and all the wires to connect to your courtesy light. A Courtesy switch cap is included in the switch kit.

Livewell Pump

The Ez boat wiring harness provides a 20′ livewell pump breakout. The rewire kit has a fuse position for livewell pump and all the wires to connect to your livewell switch. A livewell switch cap is included in the switch kit.

Horn

Your rewire kit has a fuse for your horn and the wires to power the switch. Since your horn is in the helm, you would need to run your own boat wiring from the horn switch to the horn for power and a ground wire from the horn to the ground block on the pontoon wiring harness to make the horn work. The switch kit includes a momentary switch and a Horn labeled switch cap.

Docking Lights

The Pontoon Boat Wiring harness has breakouts for docking lights at the bow and the rewire kit has a fuse and all the wires needed to wire up your docking lights. The switch kit includes a Docking lights labeled switch cap.

Trip Set Buttons

To match the rest of your new switches, I would recommend purchasing two of Ez’s momentary switches with no labels. Each button has two wires. One goes to ground (I would connect it to your new pontoon harness ground block) and the other connects to the 24 pin white connector on the bottom of your dash cluster.

Radio

Most stereos used on boats were originally designed for automotive applications. They have a switched power wire and a constant power wire. If a stereo switch (or ignition switch) is not used on the switched power wire and the stereo is not shut down completely, it will drain a battery in about a day. For example, on most Kenwood stereos, you need to hold the power button down for 6 seconds to completely turn it off.

Anchor Winch

The anchor winch will draw more power than I designed the pontoon wiring harness is designed to deliver – most require their own set of power leads to the battery and use a relay controlled switch at the helm. You could purchase one of the momentary ON/OFF/ON switches with no label to have all the switches match.

12 Volt Receptacle

The rewire kit has the option to add a 12 volt receptacle panel. This will plug directly in the rewire kit. The rewire kit has a fuse and all the wire for the receptacle. You can even choose wood grain to match your other wood panels. The wire in the 12v panel is 6′ long.

Fish Finder

The Ez rewire kit provides extra breakouts for constant power items (VHF radio, fish finder, etc). They are labeled as accessories on the fuse panel.

Other

You may want to consider the dual battery switch kit. It includes the switch, battery cables, and a ground bus. Since the batteries will be on the rear, you may need battery boxes.

Finally, if you are replacing the livewell pump and the bracket allows it, I would use a regular bilge pump instead of a livewell pump. They don’t clog up as easy. The Attwood 800 gph pump will plug directly into your new pontoon boat wiring harness.

I hope that this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Wiring the boat ignition

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Kevin,

I have a 1988 75hp Mariner and I am having problems figuring out the boat wiring for my new ignition.Ignition

I have:

  • Two purples on the same line
  • Two blacks on the same line
  • One with a red and a orange on the same line
  • Another with 2 yellow with black stripes on the line
  • One with a yellow and black stripe just one wire
  • One with yellow and red one wire

I am also sending photo boat wiring and the diagram of the new ignition

Please help me!

Michael

Hi Michael,

Here is the standard boat wiring colors that should work for your marine electrical project:

  • Red and orange – B
  • 2 Purples – I
  • Yellow/red – S
  • 2 Blacks – M
  • 2 Black/Yellows – M
  • Yellow/Black – C

Have fun boating,

Kevin

48 volt charging

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Kevin,

I have a 48V Etek outboard motor, i.e., four 12 volt batteries.

I would like to put a marine electrical battery charger and switch on the two banks of 24V each.Etek outboard

Do I need to charge each bank separately or can I set up the boat wiring to do it all at once?

Thanks
Joe

Hi Joe,

Since your system is 48 volts, the four batteries must be connected in series to achieve this voltage. I am not aware of an all in one battery switch that can change this to parallel connection of two 24 volt systems and charge them with a single, dual output battery charger.

The best solution would be to use a 4 output or 2-2 output battery chargers. Depending on how fast you want the system to recover, I would recommend the Guest 2611 or the Guest 2620

Kevin

Pontoon Wiring Parts

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Kevin

I am rebuilding a 16’ pontoon boat and I am looking at EzAcDc products for the boat wiring. I would like to go to a two-battery system so that I can run stereo, lights and accessories from the house battery.

I am looking at the following:

  1. Complete Pontoon Boat Wiring System
  2. Unwired Deluxe Marine Switch Panel
  3. Smart Battery Switch VSR System
  4. Attwood LED Navigation Lights
  5. Snap Together Boat Horn

If I order these items, is there anything else I will need? Will it really be complete and ready for installation?Manitou Pontoon Boat

Also, they say the systems are all “snap together”. I’m not an electrician, but I am capable of following directions. As long as all the items can be integrated with each other, and have simple directions, I should be able to complete the task. Is the system fairly easy?

Thanks,

Jake

Hi Jake,

We are partners with EzAcDc and have worked on the design of many of the products they sell.

If you are looking for a complete snap-together system, I would upgrade from the unwired switch panel to the fully wired version. Both panels are the same, but the wired version will come ready to simply plug into the pontoon boat harness.

The Smart Battery Switch is one of the best selling products – and for good reason. It makes battery management really simple. Unfortunately, it does not work well with small engine alternators. If your engine alternator is less than 20 amps, buy the less expensive Complete Battery Switch system combined with a small battery charger similar to this Guest 2611. But, if your alternator has the “juice”, then use the smart system and you will love it!

Everything really is designed to simply plug together. The boat horn and navigation lights plug directly into the harness. The harness plugs directly into the switch panel and connects to your battery or battery switch. All of the battery switch kits are complete and the schematics are easy to follow.

The snap together harnesses even come with eyelet style wire ties and stainless screws for securing – and includes adaptors to connect your legacy parts if you choose to not replace them.

Another handy feature is that the fully-wired switch panels include an extra switch cap assortment so you can custom arrange your switches on your panel. So, you are not forced to just live with ACC or have cheap looking stick on labels next to your switches. And, all of the wires are included in the panel for every wiring option.

For example, if you choose to make the middle switch your Courtesy lights, snap the CTSY Light switch cap on the switch and slide the blue wire label “courtesy lights” onto the only open position on the back of the switch. All blue courtesy light wires in your pontoon harness will not be powered by this switch. EzAcDc puts 5 amp breakers in all positions. If this is not enough, they even include two extra 10 amp breakers with every panel. For example, say that your halogen docking lights are causing the 5 amp breaker in the panel to nuisance trip. Swap the breaker for one of the provided 10s. The wiring can easily handle it.

Thanks for your consideration. Please let me know if you have any other questions,

Kevin

Ignition wiring and troubleshooting

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Kevin,

I have tried to match up the boat wiring on the old switch to the new switch but have not had any luck making the switch work.

I have attached a diagram of the new switch and the old switch has six blades but are arranged different (none in the center) and the terminals are lettered different.

On the old switch the terminals are as follows with the wires that were attached

  • S- yellow w/red stripe
  • C- yellow w/black stripe
  • B- red and red w/blue stripe
  • M- two black w/yellow stripe
  • A- two purple
  • M- two black

Can you help? The motor is a Mercury 35hp if this helpsMarine electrical ignition wiring

Thanks

Hi Alvin,

The only difference between the two switches would be the labeling of the ignition circuit. On your old switch, the purple wires connected to the A post. On your new switch, your purple wires connect to the I post.

Is there a chance that a fuse is blown? There should be an in-line fuse in the boat wiring that feeds power to the ignition switch (red/blue). It is probably near the starter solenoid on your engine.

If this is not the problem, I would check the start-in-gear protection circuit. Follow the yellow/red wire from the key switch, through the shifter and back to the engine. You can use a 12v meter to test for power. If the shifter is in neutral, the yellow/red wire will have power when the key switch is held in the start position.

If this is not the problem, I would check the starter solenoid on the engine. You can make a jumper wire to jump from the + battery post on your starter to the small post with the yellow/red wire to test the solenoid. If the engine turns over, there is something wrong in the boat wiring. If it doesn’t, it is either the solenoid or the starter.

If you have it narrowed down to the solenoid or starter, take a large pair of pliers and jump from one side of the starter solenoid to the other to see of the starter will engage. If it does, then the solenoid is bad. If it doesn’t, the starter is the problem.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Wiring Navigation Light Switch

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Hi Kevin,Attwood is the industry's top source for pontoon navigation lights.

I am the recent part owner of a 15 year old Party Craft Pontoon boat (no manuals available). Someone before me has wired the lights in a very strange way.

I had a problem with the docking lights, which I think I have solved. Someone had broken the light off and tried to put the boat wiring back and did a bad job. I spliced in some new wires and got it working.

I am now working on the next problem, which is putting the folding all-round stern light on a different switch. Someone put the stern light on the same switch as the red and green navigation lights. The switch is a two-position switch with the center position “off “. This only lets us put one light on at a time.

It would be nice to know how these switches are supposed to be wired if you have any boat wiring diagrams.

Thanks.

Joseph

Hi Joseph,

Your pontoon boat wiring should have the navigation and anchor lights on the same switch. While in the navigate position, the red, green, and white lights should be on on. While in the anchor position, only the white light should be turned on.

If you switch only has three terminals, power goes to the center, red/green go to the bottom, and white goes to the top. Add a diode similar to this between the top and bottom post.

The diode will allow current to flow in one direction, but not the other. When you put the switch in the nav position, power will go to the red/green lights and also flow through diode to allow the white light to illuminate. When you put the switch in the anc position, power will go to the white light, but the diode will prevent power from travelling to the red/green lights.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin

Thanks for the information.

Where do I get a diode like your talking about? Do I have to solder it to the terminals or can I create a small jumper wire with the diode?

Thank you.

Joseph

Hi Joseph,

You can get that diode at most Radio Shacks. If the leads are long enough, you can actually crimp them into the same terminal with your nav and anc boat wiring.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Engine Works. Gauges Don’t.

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Kevin,

I have a 2005 Sun Tracker Party Barge 24 with a 50 hp Tracker by Mercury Marine outboard.

I had the engine rebuilt due to a broken ring. After I got it back, I noticed that there isn’t any power to the console gages. But, you can turn on the ignition switch and the engines starts like it should.

Does the power for the console gages go through the motor before it goes to the console?

I’m thinking that maybe the boat wiring was hooked up wrong when the motor was reconnected. Can you tell me where I would need to look for the wire and what color code it may have? Also, do you know where it hooks up in the motor area?

Thanks Suntracker 24 Party Barge

Kenny

Hi Kenny,

The same boat wiring that provides power to the start position on you key switch, provides power to your gauges.

Usually, there is a red or red/purple wire in your engine wiring harness. This is the power feed to the ignition switch (position B on the switch). The gauges are fed power from the the purple wire coming off of the I position on your key switch.

If you engine starts, but the gauges do not work, I would check the purple wire between the ignition switch and gauges for 12v power and confirm that the ground for the gauges is still connected.

Hope this helps,

Kevin