Hi Kevin,

I am interested in rewiring my 21′ pontoon boat with the pontoon boat wiring harness, OEM original panel rewire kit, and switch covers from EzAcDc.

I understand that you helped in the design of the EzAcDc system and am hoping that you can answer some questions for me.

I will need circuits for:

• Two navigation lights mounted on front of boat, 15 feet from helm, switched from top rocker in panel, left position.
• Anchor Light (one pole), mounted on rear of boat, switched from top
• Four interior courtesy lights, each light within 15 feet of helm, switched from second on-off rocker.
• One live well pump located in motor well, rear of boat, 20′ feet
• Pontoon Boat Horn, enclosed unit, located in helm
• Two docking lights, mounted on front of boat, 20 feet from helm, operated by push/pull switch.
• Trip set buttons, (2) mounted next in ignition plate, to set trip
• In-dash radio with three speakers each located within 15 feet of helm.  Switch below Radio (see picture) on/off rocker for radio.  Why not
  turn radio on/off via radio switch and use this position for wench referred below?
• Anchor winch to be added.  I assume separate circuit to run from helm to front of boat about 20′.  Could be switched from radio switch
  mentioned above or switch located elsewhere, possibly in ignition plate. Switch should be left depress to lower, right depress to lift.
• Locate convenience receptacle (location suggestion would be appreciated) to operate vacuum cleaner, etc.  I assume power from second
  battery.
• Wire for simple fish finder.  Removable unit, located on or close to helm.
• Also are there any other suggestions that you have for this boat wiring project?

Thanks,

Jay

In general, you should be fine with the pontoon harness and the rewire kit from our partners at EzAcDc. More specifically:

Navigation Lights

The Ez Pontoon Boat harness has wires for both bow lights – and it plugs directly into your new rewire kit. The rewire kit has fuse and wires to wire new nav/anc switch. A nav/anc switch and labeled switch cap is included in the switch kit.

All Round Light

The Pontoon Boat harness has a wires for your stern light which plug directly into rewire kit. The rewire kit has fuse and wires to wire new nav/anc switch – per the USCG, the stern light needs to be on centerline of your boat. Most people put them on their bimini top.

Interior Lights

The harness provides two 12′ courtesy light breakouts. From the helm panel, these wires are closer to 16′ long. Additional length can be added along with additional courtesy lights spliced in. The rewire kit has a fuse position for courtesy lights and all the wires to connect to your courtesy light. A Courtesy switch cap is included in the switch kit.

Livewell Pump

The Ez boat wiring harness provides a 20′ livewell pump breakout. The rewire kit has a fuse position for livewell pump and all the wires to connect to your livewell switch. A livewell switch cap is included in the switch kit.

Horn

Your rewire kit has a fuse for your horn and the wires to power the switch. Since your horn is in the helm, you would need to run your own boat wiring from the horn switch to the horn for power and a ground wire from the horn to the ground block on the pontoon wiring harness to make the horn work. The switch kit includes a momentary switch and a Horn labeled switch cap.

Docking Lights

The Pontoon Boat Wiring harness has breakouts for docking lights at the bow and the rewire kit has a fuse and all the wires needed to wire up your docking lights. The switch kit includes a Docking lights labeled switch cap.

Trip Set Buttons

To match the rest of your new switches, I would recommend purchasing two of Ez’s momentary switches with no labels. Each button has two wires. One goes to ground (I would connect it to your new pontoon harness ground block) and the other connects to the 24 pin white connector on the bottom of your dash cluster.

Radio

Most stereos used on boats were originally designed for automotive applications. They have a switched power wire and a constant power wire. If a stereo switch (or ignition switch) is not used on the switched power wire and the stereo is not shut down completely, it will drain a battery in about a day. For example, on most Kenwood stereos, you need to hold the power button down for 6 seconds to completely turn it off.

Anchor Winch

The anchor winch will draw more power than I designed the pontoon wiring harness is designed to deliver – most require their own set of power leads to the battery and use a relay controlled switch at the helm. You could purchase one of the momentary ON/OFF/ON switches with no label to have all the switches match.

12 Volt Receptacle

The rewire kit has the option to add a 12 volt receptacle panel. This will plug directly in the rewire kit. The rewire kit has a fuse and all the wire for the receptacle. You can even choose wood grain to match your other wood panels. The wire in the 12v panel is 6′ long.

Fish Finder

The Ez rewire kit provides extra breakouts for constant power items (VHF radio, fish finder, etc). They are labeled as accessories on the fuse panel.

Other

You may want to consider the dual battery switch kit. It includes the switch, battery cables, and a ground bus. Since the batteries will be on the rear, you may need battery boxes.

Finally, if you are replacing the livewell pump and the bracket allows it, I would use a regular bilge pump instead of a livewell pump. They don’t clog up as easy. The Attwood 800 gph pump will plug directly into your new pontoon boat wiring harness.

I hope that this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Kevin

I am rebuilding a 16’ pontoon boat and I am looking at EzAcDc products for the boat wiring. I would like to go to a two-battery system so that I can run stereo, lights and accessories from the house battery.

I am looking at the following:

1. Complete Pontoon Boat Wiring System
2. Unwired Deluxe Marine Switch Panel
3. Smart Battery Switch VSR System
4. Attwood LED Navigation Lights
5. Snap Together Boat Horn

If I order these items, is there anything else I will need? Will it really be complete and ready for installation?

Also, they say the systems are all “snap together”. I’m not an electrician, but I am capable of following directions. As long as all the items can be integrated with each other, and have simple directions, I should be able to complete the task. Is the system fairly easy?

Thanks,

Jake

Hi Jake,

We are partners with EzAcDc and have worked on the design of many of the products they sell.

If you are looking for a complete snap-together system, I would upgrade from the unwired switch panel to the fully wired version. Both panels are the same, but the wired version will come ready to simply plug into the pontoon boat harness.

The Smart Battery Switch is one of the best selling products – and for good reason. It makes battery management really simple. Unfortunately, it does not work well with small engine alternators. If your engine alternator is less than 20 amps, buy the less expensive Complete Battery Switch system combined with a small battery charger similar to this Guest 2611. But, if your alternator has the “juice”, then use the smart system and you will love it!

Everything really is designed to simply plug together. The boat horn and navigation lights plug directly into the harness. The harness plugs directly into the switch panel and connects to your battery or battery switch. All of the battery switch kits are complete and the schematics are easy to follow.

The snap together harnesses even come with eyelet style wire ties and stainless screws for securing – and includes adaptors to connect your legacy parts if you choose to not replace them.

Another handy feature is that the fully-wired switch panels include an extra switch cap assortment so you can custom arrange your switches on your panel. So, you are not forced to just live with ACC or have cheap looking stick on labels next to your switches. And, all of the wires are included in the panel for every wiring option.

For example, if you choose to make the middle switch your Courtesy lights, snap the CTSY Light switch cap on the switch and slide the blue wire label “courtesy lights” onto the only open position on the back of the switch. All blue courtesy light wires in your pontoon harness will not be powered by this switch. EzAcDc puts 5 amp breakers in all positions. If this is not enough, they even include two extra 10 amp breakers with every panel. For example, say that your halogen docking lights are causing the 5 amp breaker in the panel to nuisance trip. Swap the breaker for one of the provided 10s. The wiring can easily handle it.

Thanks for your consideration. Please let me know if you have any other questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

I am trying to install a new dual trumpet electric boat horn to replace my non-working single trumpet air horn. Have mounted the horn on my pontoon hardtop and used the heavy gauge boat wiring from the compressor to power the horn.

I have approx 12.5 volts at the horn but get only a sound like it’s attempting to blow. I had a similar sound on another boat that had corroded points in the horn. Cleaning these fixed that problem but not on this horn.

So far, I have connected the horn directly to a “jump start” and it works fine…replaced the horn switch…have tried alternate boat wiring with red going to a hot buss bar used by other equipment and black going to a ground bus bar used by other equipment, but all with no results.

Finally, I have checked polarity on the trumpets wiring and colors match

Ever had a problem like this?

Don

Hi Don,

Some electric trumpet horns are very voltage sensitive. On the back of the horn cover there is usually a sticker that says “AFI” or “Ongaro”. Under this sticker is a small phillips screw. If all connections are good and the wire is the appropriate size, turn the screw until the horn sounds. Usually you loosen the screw, but not always. I would not turn it more than a couple turns.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

You can’t imagine how many people I’ve asked to look at this issue. Two of them were even marine electrical guys, but no one came up with this solution.

Horn works fine now.

Thanks for the help

Don

Kevin,

I am trying to add a Smart Battery Switch to my pontoon boat wiring and need your help.

My battery switch has three poles and three positions plus off. I have two batteries. Bat 1, Bat 2 and load/out…which wires do I connect to the VSR and when running, where do I set the battery switch?

Thanks

Randy

Hi Randy,

I saw the huge discussion about this on the Pontoonstuff forum. Those guys are a great resource and have provided some of the answers that you are looking for.

Your new marine electrical setup includes a Blue Seas Dual Pole Plus switch which makes it really simple to use. All you have to do is just turn the switch on when you are using your boat and turn it off when you leave.

This simplicity is possible because your system includes a VSR which is the “smarts” in a smart battery switch.

Typically with a conventional three post battery switch, you would be told to start the engine with the battery switch at either position 1 or position 2 and only use both in an emergency. While boating, you would be told to remember to switch the switch from position 1 to position 2 to keep the batteries fully charged.

That would work, except that in the real world, people turn the switch to BOTH and just leave it. Both batteries charge and both discharge. Use too much battery capacity and you’re paddling home. The VSR allows you to have two separate systems (engine and boat) and have an automatic switch between them to charge, but not discharge.

The simplest version would be engine connected to battery 1 and boat connected to battery 2. Grounds connected. VSR between both positive posts. Engine would charge battery 1 to 13.7 volts and then begin charging battery 2. When engine is off and voltage begins to drop, the VSR opens the connection to prevent the boat from discharging the engine battery and preventing the engine from starting.

Adding switches to the system allows you the disconnect major circuits when not in use. The classic three post battery switch (1, 2, both, off) allows you to do a manual parallel of the batteries in an emergency. I have seen some people re-label their battery switch when they combine it with a VSR. OFF stays as OFF. 1 is labeled as ON. BOTH and 2 are EMERGENCY.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

Just bought a used pontoon boat that loses all power to the console panel whenever any switch is pushed. If you flip switch back off power returns.

I checked all the boat wiring…switches are good, cleaned all grounds, checked all fuses.

Any ideas?

Jim

Hi Jim,

If this happens when any switch is turned on, the problem is either the power wire or the ground wire. There is a bad connection or bad spot in the wire that can only handle a very minimal amount of current before it becomes an open circuit.

Use a meter to test for power at different locations while you have your switches on and you will find the problem with your pontoon boat wiring.

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for all the help you provide for those of us learning about pontoon boat wiring.

On my pontoon rebuild, Ive just finished my carpet, got the side rails up, and are just about ready to tackle my wiring. I read one of your post where you commented about me using a ground bus – said it was not a bad idea.

I checked out EzAcDc and am planning on getting one of their ground buses.

Here’s my question:

• Can I install it to the plastic inside of my helm?
• What do I connect it to?
• Do I run another wire to the negative pole on the battery?
• What do I ground to the bus? the panel?

Sorry for my stupid questions just trying to get a handle on this.

Thanks

Ken

Hi Ken

Once you start adding accessories to your boat wiring beyond the switch panel, it will become apparent where you need the ground block or blocks.

If you add several items to the helm area, you will immediately see that you have no place to connect the grounds. If you add enough items, you may want to consider getting a second insulated buss for power. Both of these would have wires connected to your boat’s battery or battery switch. The positive lead would need fuse/breaker at the battery. Please use this boat wiring size calculator on this Easy Ac/Dc post to determine the size of you power and ground wire for these blocks.

A load of grounds and positives on a battery can cause some serious problems. When small and large wires are connected to the same post on a battery, they have a tendency to loosen up. Loose cables will prevent the alternator from completely charging the engine. When replacing a battery, several wires on each post can cause confusion (which wire goes on which post). This is usually a good place for a ground buss/power buss also.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I just purchased a pontoon and will be retrofitting it completely with EzAcDc boat wiring. I’m especially intrigued by the VSR smart battery switches.

My question is…

I will be using AGM batteries and would like to hook up three banks and maybe four. I know it sounds like too much but I will be running trolling motors, computer, large screens and lots of lights.

One battery will be for the motor. The rest for tricks.

Is this possible?? Can two VSR smart battery switches do the trick??

Thanks

Rick

Hi Rick,

As long as your system is only 12 volts, the only limitation is the size of the alternator on your engine.

The VSR is designed for a common ground 12 volt system. You can make a large, house battery bank using as many batteries as you wish. You can also divide your house battery bank up and connect them with VSRs.

Let me know if you have more questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

I would like to know if you could walk me through the boat wiring for my tachometer and volt meter connecting to my 1975 50 horse Johnson outboard.

Can it be wired directly to my pontoon’s ignition?

Thank You,

Walt

Hi Walter,

Your engine wiring harness should have the following wire colors.

• Gray – Tach Signal
• Purple – Ignition power
• Black – Ground

1. Connect the purple to the tachometer + and voltmeter + leads.
2. Connect the black to the tachometer – and voltmeter – leads.
3. Connect the gray to the tachometer signal lead.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Every pontoon owner appreciates the luxury of on-board AC power. It allows the use of affordable and convenient “household” appliances like mixers, vacuums, refrigerators and stoves – as well as really handy “marine” items like battery chargers anytime you are at the dock.

Unfortunately, it’s a luxury that often seems out of reach.

The main issues are usually the king’s ransom required to have a local boatyard install a simple marine shore power system, or the lack of electrical expertise to tackle the the job as a DIY.

The new Marine Shore Power Systems from EzAcDc offer a solution to these issues. They are complete shore power kits that are easily installed and include everything you need to complete the project quickly and safely.

For a more complete overview please visit EzAcDc or check out this post from our sister site:

Hi Kevin,

First of all, thank you for all of the time and effort that you put into your website. The boat wiring information that you share is invaluable.

So tell me Mr. Marine Electrical, do my ambitions exceed my abilities?

My wife and I have a small boat that we’ve enjoyed for many years. It’s a perfect size for the two of us and can’t imagine anything that would make the boat more fun…with one exception. We find that we are very jealous of our marina neighbors who have shore power. Whether they are using a television, a drink mixer, a vacuum, a toaster, or even a simple battery charger, we start down the “if only” path.

How tough a project is it to add AC power to an older boat? I’m reasonably comfortable with simple household wiring jobs, but have been told that marine AC can be an incredibly complicated and – if not done correctly – incredibly dangerous.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Matt

Hi Matt,

No project is too big, not project is too small when “Mr. Marine Electrical” is on the scene!

Seriously, there is a great new product from our partners at EzAcDc that will fit your needs. They have a complete marine shore power system that follows their snap-together philosophy of simplifying boat wiring jobs.

Installation of the new marine shore power system is easy.

The panel is pre-wired and comes with a remote outlet with 10′ of boat cable that simply plugs into a “snap together” plug on the back. The kit is also pre-wired with 10′ of Marine grade boat cable that runs from the boat AC panel to the included shore power inlet.
Best of all, any complex electrical connections are already made inside the powdercoated aluminum box.

All outlets are GFCI protected. And, for additional safety, the AC panel has a dual pole breaker to protect the boater if the dock outlet is wired backwards.

The panel also includes a power “on” indicator light and a reverse polarity light. It also comes with the AC to DC grounding wire that is required by the US Coast Guard. This wire runs from the back of the panel to your DC negative buss, engine ground, or battery negative and provides an additional safety path to ground if you have an AC fault on your boat. Even though required, this wire is redundant on this well-designed system since the GFCI also protects everything.

Additionally, there is a single outlet on the back of the shore power panel to allow a built in AC device to be connected. This is ideal for a battery charger or refrigerator that comes with a standard 15 A household plug. Simply plug it into the back of the panel before installing.

It comes with the industry standard 30 amp Marinco inlet. You can choose between the standard square plastic inlet or upgrade to the stainless steel version. Both will connect to an 30 amp marine cordset or adaptor.

Please let me know how your project turns out. I always like pictures.

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Is it ok to have to different size batteries in my boat?

I’m putting in a size 34 and a size 27 separated by a 1/Both/2/Off battery switch.

The batteries are Optimax blue tops. The Group 31 has 1125 cranking amps and the Group 27 has 870.

Danny

Hi Danny,

It is OK to connect different size batteries on the same battery switch.

Keep in mind that if you put the battery switch in the Both position, you will basically have 1 large battery with 1,995 CCA.

Separate your loads and use circuit protection as close as possible to the battery.

Kevin

Kevin,

The navigation lights on my old Playbuoy pontoon stopped working.

The rocker on/off/on switch is bad. It has four .25″ spade conectors in the back. To replace it, I bought a DPDT rocker switch with six spade connectors. I put the boat wiring in the same locations as the old one but it does not work. What is the proper position for the wires?

Rex

Rex,

You will need to add two jumper wires to make your new switch work properly with your boat wiring.

• Power – connect to one of the center spade connectors.
• Jumper wire # 1 – connect from center spade connect above to the other spade connector
• Stern light – Gray/blue – connect to top right post
• Jumper wire # 2 – connect from top right post above to bottom right post
• Bow light – Gray/green – connect to bottom left post

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I want to replace the 12/24 trolling motor that I currently have with a 36 volt model.

I already have a two bank charger. After I add the third battery, can I still use two banks on two of the batteries and then hook up a portable charger for the third?

Charles

Charles,

Yes. Your plan will work OK, but please remember that your portable charger is probably not ignition protected. It should not be used in a compartment where gasoline is stored.

Kevin