Category Archives: Voltmeter

Switch Should Help

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Kevin,

I have pontoon boat wiring that runs the battery down when the boat isn’t running.

I put an amp probe on it and it is drawing 1 amp, but I am not sure what to do next.A simple on/off switch can disconnect the battery when not in use.

Frank

Hi Frank,

With you amp probe installed, remove fuses or disconnect circuit breakers one at a time to determine which circuit is creating the draw. I would put my money on your stereo being the problem.

A simple solution to your issue would be to add a classic ON/OFF battery switch. You could use it to completely disconnect the battery from the rest of the boat wiring when you aren’t using it.

Happy boat wiring,

Kevin

Engine Works. Gauges Don’t.

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Kevin,

I have a 2005 Sun Tracker Party Barge 24 with a 50 hp Tracker by Mercury Marine outboard.

I had the engine rebuilt due to a broken ring. After I got it back, I noticed that there isn’t any power to the console gages. But, you can turn on the ignition switch and the engines starts like it should.

Does the power for the console gages go through the motor before it goes to the console?

I’m thinking that maybe the boat wiring was hooked up wrong when the motor was reconnected. Can you tell me where I would need to look for the wire and what color code it may have? Also, do you know where it hooks up in the motor area?

Thanks Suntracker 24 Party Barge

Kenny

Hi Kenny,

The same boat wiring that provides power to the start position on you key switch, provides power to your gauges.

Usually, there is a red or red/purple wire in your engine wiring harness. This is the power feed to the ignition switch (position B on the switch). The gauges are fed power from the the purple wire coming off of the I position on your key switch.

If you engine starts, but the gauges do not work, I would check the purple wire between the ignition switch and gauges for 12v power and confirm that the ground for the gauges is still connected.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Lights Out

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Kevin,Marine Navigation Lights

I have a 2003 Manitou pontoon boat. Both the port and starboard navigation lights don’t work.

I don’t have a boat wiring diagram. Are the light fused and if so where would they be located?

Thanks in advance

Wayne

Hi Wayne,

I would check for corrosion on the bulbs before jumping to conclusions on boat wiring.

Once you have made sure that corrosion isn’t the problem:

The port and starboard navigation lights are fed their power by the gray/green wire. This wire runs from the navigation light switch, through the 15 position connector below the helm, and then you towards the starboard navigation light.

Near the light, there is a second gray/green wire spliced into the harness the heads over to the port navigation light. The ground wires have a similar path. Since neither light works, the problem is in the gray/green wire between the helm and the splice near the starboard nav light or in the ground between the starboard navigation light and the ground splice area under the helm.

Using a meter, test for 12v power at the gray/green wire at the switch and 15 position connector when the switch is on (use ground source other than the navigation light ground wire). If there is power, test at the navigation light (remove the bulb or probe the wire). If there is power at the lights, the ground is bad. Un-tape the ground splice below the helm and locate the ground problem.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Ignition Switch Connections

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Kevin,

I have a 1987 Force Mercury 85hp engine and am trying to wire up the ignition switch.

The pontoon boat wiring harness has aForce 85HP

  • Yellow for start
  • Purple for tac
  • White for Mag
  • Green for choke
  • Orange for heat
  • Red for battery
  • Blue for Mag
  • Black for ground

My boat ignition switch has six terminals, however they are not coded. The switch has a number on the side 0711.

How do I determine where the boat wiring goes on the switch?

I have fooled with the wires on the switch, the engine will start, choke will work (push the key in) but the engine will not shut off when the key is turned off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

John

Hi John,

Disconnect all the boat wiring from the switch and use an ohm meter to test which terminal is which.

  • With the key off, use your ohm meter to locate the two terminals that are internally connected together. Connect your ground and mag wires to these two terminals.
  • With the key on, use your ohm meter to locate the two terminals that are internally connected together. Connect your battery wire to either terminal.
  • With the key in the start position, use your ohm meter to locate the terminal that is internally connected to your battery terminal. Connect your start wire here.
  • With the key in the choke position, use your ohm meter to locate the terminal that is internally connected to your choke terminal. Connect your choke wire here.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Battery dies while away

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Hi Kevin,

Have a 2005 Manitou 18′ Oasis and this year have had trouble with the pontoon boat wiring. Specifically, the battery runs down if it isn’t used for a while.

I checked current leakage and found on both the black and red leads a momentary drain of .5 amp which drops to 10Ma – almost like a capacitor charging, then stays at 10Ma.

Any Ideas?Manitou builds excellent pontoon boats.

Thanks

Bill

Hi Bill,

The usual suspect is the stereo. Most marine electrical radios are actually designed for automotive use and do not completely power down when you turn them off.

To make matters worse, as your battery gets older, it is effected more by a slow drain. Also, loose battery cable connections can cause the battery to not charge completely while the engine is running.

Try removing the fuse from the stereo and see if your slow drain goes away. If it does, consider adding a battery switch to your boat wiring. It will completely disconnect the battery while you are away. Our partners at EzAcDc have several battery switch systems that would work for you.

Kevin

Radio may be drain problem

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Kevin,

I just bought 95 voyager 20ft pontoon.

If you leave battery hooked up it goes dead. Short somewhere? Good idea to rewire whole boat?

Thanks

Ken

Hi Ken,

The usual suspect for a slow drain on a boat battery is the stereo. Most boats have automotive style stereos in them. They were designed to be connected in conjunction with a key switch.

Before making any changes to your pontoon boat wiring, I would try removing the stereo fuse or disconnecting the stereo power leads to see of the draw goes away. If this cures the problem, add a switch to completely turn of the stereo.

You can use an in-line amp meter to test for draw or simple try one component at a time to find the slow leak.

If cannot find the problem, a rewire may be your best bet.

Kevin

Now we’re cooking.

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Hi Kevin,

I need your advice for a commercial pontoon boat wiring project.

I bought a 1993 32’ Sun Tracker Party Cruiser. It has a Mercury Black Max 150 with one battery powering everything including the cabin lights, the navigation lights, radio, refrigerator, gps/depth finder, and the starter for the motor. I think that’s everything. The boat also came with an AC marine shore power panel and one large, long power cable.

I’m going to use the boat as a floating food vending service so I’ll need lots of power and I’m not sure how to make it happen. I’m hoping you can help me out here.

I bought a 4,000 Watt generator but I’m hoping to be able to run everything off of batteries most of the time if possible?

I’m going to be powering a MAK Grill, a coffee maker, some form of food warmer, and probably a couple other small appliances.

I’m also rebuilding my console so I’ll need new gauges. None of the old ones work.

I really have no idea how to work with a marine electrical system, but I’m a very quick learner. Please let me know if you need more information.

Thank you for your help,

Darren

Hi Darren,

I would recommend a three battery system with one to start the the engine and two for everything else. They would all be connected through the VSR which would allow your engine alternator to charge them while underway.

Our partners at EzAcDc have most of what you will need. Here are the items that I would recommend:

I am not familiar with the MAK Grill. If the AC draw is not too large, you may want to consider buying an inverter/charger that can run the grill off of battery power, but also charge the batteries while you are plugged into shore power or while using your generator.

My experience is that portable generators don’t work well on boats. CO is a constant issue and the cause massive vibrations and rattles. If you use the generator on the boat, pay close attention to grounding. Since the ground and neutral will be connected together on the generator, any AC fault on the the boat will try to jump from the metal from of your boat to the generator frame. Never touch the generator and the frame of the boat (or railing) at the same time.

As for your gauges, most quit due to poor wiring. But, before you replace the gauges, check the wires.

  • Tachometer – gray (tach signal) purple (power) black (ground) blue (gauge lights)
  • Voltmeter – purple (power) black (ground) blue (gauge lights)
  • Fuel – purple (power) black (ground) blue (gauge lights) pink (sender 240 ohms empty 33 ohms full)

Hope this helps,

Kevin